TOTUS RAGLAN
Case Study

TOTUS RAGLAN

Scroll to explore the technical engineering behind this tall-fit performance longsleeve. Watch the construction details reveal as you move through each phase.

01 — Problem

Shoulder Seam Under Load

Standard set-in sleeve construction places the entire mechanical load on the shoulder seam — the highest-stress point during overhead movement. The brief demanded a method that redistributes shoulder load across a wider surface while holding performance stretch, clean-line integrity and temperature regulation.

02a — Fabric Sourcing

300 GSM Premium Pima

Fabric weights were audited across the mid-weight range, weighing hand-feel against bulk. 300 GSM premium pima cotton was locked in — substantial enough for AW26 without reading oversized on a tall frame.

300
GSM Locked Weight
Pima
Cotton Quality
02b — Raglan Engineering

Engineered Sleeve Cap

Raglan shoulder construction relocates the seam line from the shoulder cap to the underarm diagonal, distributing stress across the deltoid. The sleeve cap carries controlled ease — enough for full overhead reach without bunching at the bicep.

02c — Neckline System

Bound Neck Self-Facing

The neckline uses a bound construction with self-fabric facing, removing the separate ribbed collar. Less bulk at the neck opening, a clean raglan line from shoulder to collar, and no roll-out on stretch fabrics.

02d — Seam Architecture

Flatlock Side Seam

Side seams are joined with flatlock stitching — flat, low-profile, flush against the skin. Zero interior bulk, zero chafe points, and full four-way stretch maintained across the seam.

0
Interior Bulk
4-Way
Seam Stretch
02e — Jogger Cuff

Four-Point Stay-Tape Cuff

A four-point stay-tape cuff system is built into the jogger hem to stop the chronic ankle-roll tall-fit joggers suffer after a few wears. The armhole junction on the tops receives thermal tape stabilisation against dimensional creep.

03 — Result

Sampling Approved

The final prototype was approved at sampling, with the raglan line, cuff system and thermal taping carried into the production specification as drafted.

Technical Specifications

Specs

Fabric
300 GSM Premium Pima / QZ Tri-Blend
Season
AW 26/27
Construction
Offset Raglan, Flatlock Seam, Thermal Tape
Cuff
Four-Point Stay-Tape System
Fit
Tall block
Status
Sampling Approved
Next Steps

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